Thursday, November 27, 2008

A very Happy Thanksgiving indeed!



We had a great day yesterday and of course, ate too much as usual! We're going to start some new traditions for future Thanksgivings... I love the Pilgrim hat idea! Also, we did a Thanksgiving trivia contest and listened to a nice holiday meditation. The only thing we forgot to do was say what we were thankful for; but that could take all night couldn't it? Can't wait to see everyone back in the US soon!
I know that today is Black Friday (and I really hate missing out on all of the sales!) but we're celebrating the anniversary of our (semi-blind) first date 13 years ago! We usually like to order in Chinese or watch "The Cutting Edge" in memory, but today we are heading down to the Dead Sea for one last float... maybe we'll start something new this year and go for a mud bath instead.
Happy Shopping Everyone!!!

Our best buds in Amman!


Mervat and Saad, Hind and Maya, Djenan and Zain. We are sure going to miss them!!

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

J's trip to Qatar




I love these contrasting images of Qatar between the city of Doha and it's outskirts. Also, J had an interesting visit to the Al Jezerra headquarters. He came home with some fun freebee's including a hat for K that she wears all of the time.

Happy Birthday to Jane!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Officially, less than one week left in Jordan after today, wow has it gone fast! Too fast! We’ve been so busy the past few weeks that we haven’t had time to process any of this yet. I’m sure once we get on that plane it will hit us and we’ll be very sad. Don’t get me wrong, I’m excited to go home and see everyone, but we feel like we’re leaving here at such a good point. We’ve made wonderful friends and finally are comfortable and feel at home, of course- this is the time we always end up moving! : ) Ahh, we’re used to it now. Like I always say, better to leave while you’re still loved!

Life has been exceptionally crazy though, as typical for the culture here, we have to see everyone at least one last time before we depart. This means a night out (which never starts before 8:30 and dinner before 9:30) so I’m beat from one late night after another. If I’m not careful, I’m going to start getting that pregnancy heartburn! We’ve also had many B-day parties going on which have been tons of fun. My favorites have been our Jordanian friend’s kids and getting to meet their extended families. My friend Mervat is a modern gal, but her parents are very traditional… for instance, her father will not shake hands (touch) an unrelated female. We all laughed when another American friend got her hand rejected upon introduction! This was not as bad as the time I got my traditional greeting of a kiss on the cheek rejected by a male friend. Awkward! Waving thru these cultural waters keeps me on my toes and quite entertained! As much as I love my Arab friends here, I’m not going to miss having to dress impeccably for every meeting (another thing I always fail to pull off, me- the casual American!) These women look like they’re heading out for a day of shopping in Manhattan just to go to the playground. To you mom pals in DC, please be prepared to meet in sweatshirts, jeans and slippers!

I’m going to post some pics next of J’s trip to Qatar last week. He spent 4 nights there and had a good time, also visited with old neighbors of ours from CA. While he was gone, we threw a birthday party for Jane and I got to meet all of her Filipina friends. That was another interesting night! Tonight we went out with an Iraqi woman and her husband that I met (thru a Chinese lady who taught me how to make Chinese dumplings, random! I’m telling you this place is truly a melting pot!) She and her husband fled Iraq three years ago – they actually were planning to just come to Amman for a holiday and left everything in their home out as if they’d be back in a week. They’re still waiting for it to be safe enough for them to return. Talking with her was fascinating. There is just nothing like hearing a story first hand. For all of the accounts I’ve watched on the news throughout the years, this really gave me a true prospective of what life was like under Sadaam and after. She’s invited us over for an Iraqi meal tomorrow so that should be even more interesting. If you get the chance, watch the BBC movie “The House of Sadaam”, it’s four hours long but terrific!

Well, J, K and I want to wish everyone a great Thanksgiving!!! We’ll sure be thinking of our families and wishing we were with you. We’re spending the holiday at our Pastor’s home. We’ve found a wonderful church (another thing we hate to leave) and they are hosting a dinner. The funny thing is; it will be mostly Europeans! I love that they won’t be able to compare my pumpkin pie with their moms though : ) I’ve already made two for “practice”, yum! It is sure getting us in the mood for turkey day. We have so many things to be thankful for, especially as Americans. I’m thankful for food banks (and a social system that supports poor people) so I don’t have starving children begging me for money every time I go grocery shopping, like they do when I’m shopping here. I’m thankful that women have equal rights and can do whatever they want without the approval of a male family member. I’m thankful for free speech! And; I’m so very thankful for the opportunity to live in the Middle East and experience a place that is quite different from America. I wish everyone could do it… diversity is the spice of life!

Finally, I forgot to post this about our recent trip to the Sinai in Egypt…
Despite all of the trouble this trip gave us (our last one in the Mid East!), it turned out to be well worth the effort. Although, I admit for a while I was wondering if God was trying to send us a sign not to go! We had a great time as a family and our four nights there flew by too quickly (they always do). The first thing we learned when landing in Sharm El Sheikh is that it is unlike any place in Egypt- you forget you’re in a Muslim country for starters. The place was FILLED with Russian tourists and all of the hotel staff we spoke to spoke Russian (sometimes better than English). The first sign is that instead of the traditional (conservative) dress we usually see on our trips, this place was all skin (and I mean skin!) For once, I started to miss the Birkini (can you really blame me after gaining 10lbs for not wanting to be surrounded by Russian supermodels all week? LOL!) This also meant lots of alcohol, which we usually don’t see. As K spent her days playing with the Russian kids in the pool, J and I laughed that 30 yrs ago when we were her age our parents probably wouldn’t have dreamt of us playing with little Russian kids. The world has sure changed!

On our first full day there, we drove into the town of Sharm and checked out the outdoor markets, this lasted about 20 minutes until we decided it was all junk and went back to the pool. It did give us a glimpse of where the bombings had been though. It was easy to tell what’s been recently rebuilt. After the terrorist attacks there, they started building a wall around the town and since the more recent attacks on other cities in the Sinai; the security is quite heavy everywhere with frequent police checkpoints and passport control.

Our second day was a little crazier; we had planned to drive to the town of St. Katherine’s to see the famous monastery there and Mt. Sinai. We decided that we wanted a low stress day so we hired a driver to take us in our rental car. Well, sure enough, the driver never showed up and we wasted a long time waiting for him. Our frustration was compounded by the fact that I read in the guidebook that the trip to St. K’s would take twice as long as we had expected at it closed at noon! We raced to the car and drove the entire way there afraid we’d arrive too late. After several police checkpoints and very desolate roads we made it (2 ½ hours thru the desert). We parked the car at 12:15 and then had a quarter mile walk to the monastery. We raced the whole way knowing it was closed but hoping for sympathy. There were busloads of tourists leaving the place and when I saw an open door, we all snuck in and made our way to the “burning bush” (the main attraction there). Turned out we were lucky to get there late; it was empty compared to the mob that usually surrounds it and we got some good photos.

After we left the monastery, we wanted to get a glimpse of Mt. Sinai. J had intended to climb the mountain but we just didn’t have time since sunset was so early. We decided to save time and hire camels to take us partially up so that we could get a look at it. I enjoyed my ride but with J carrying K, he was miserable. She loved it though and it was definitely the highlight of her trip. After a mere hour and a half there, we had to drive back to Sharm because we didn’t want to be caught on the roads after dark. Even though we spent a lot of time in the car the trip was worth it- seeing Mt. Sinai was awesome, next time we’ll have to climb it. K kept talking about how she got to see where Moses lived!

Our third day was slightly wasted driving to the Ras Mohammed National Park, despite the great snorkeling we were promised we never found it. The park was all sand, water and dirt roads. We spent the rest of the trip relaxing at the hotel. The snorkeling there was incredible and thankfully, there were plenty of things to do to keep K busy. We were bummed to see our last adventure in the Mid East come to an end but when I arrived home late Sat. night, I said a prayer of thanks with relief. After all the miles we have driven/flown/trained/bused/taxi’d/ridden/floated this past year and the places we’ve been, God surely protected and blessed our travels! Believe it or not, I can’t say that I ever felt “unsafe” anywhere--- I hope I can say the same for Washington D.C. LOL!!

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Fun times on the Red Sea!






Once K found out that our resort had a pony it was all she talked about (her new obsession) so here she is on one of her nightly pony rides. She also had fun playing with the Russian kids at the pool, she was so confused when they kept speaking to her and she couldn't understand anything they said. I did manage to teach her "Niet" (no) though after one pal took her toys away. The snorkeling was amazing (although we had to take turns in the water). We swam off the dock at the hotel and it was honestly the best snorkeling I've done anywhere (Australia, Hawaii and Caribbean included) so if you are into diving this is definitely THE place to go!
J and I commisserated that resort life with a toddler meant the following: Pony rides at sunset instead of cocktails, playgrounds and kiddie pools instead of lounging at the adult pool, eating hotdogs at 5 instead of gourmet at 8 and worst of all, bedtime at 8:30 and awake at 6!!! If you truly want to relaxation, it's not easy with a kiddo (isn't that what grandparents are for anyways? :)

Ras Mohammed Nat. Park/ Naama Bay at night




We drove to a nat. park but found it to be somewhat of a disappointment, a lot of sand and water but not the great snorkeling we were expecting, guess it's better if you take a boat there instead of driving. Also a pic of us walking the boardwalk at Naama Bay, this is a fun place to hang out after dark. We had dinner at the Hard Rock and then attempted to walk, the only problem was we forgot the stroller and K insisted on being carried after her boo-boo earlier in the day- at 35lbs it just wasn't possible to carry her very far so we called it an early night. Bummer!

Trip to Mt. Sinai/ St. Katherines Monastary



Our five hours in the car (there and back) to Mt. Sinai was a vast amount of nothingness... the view never changed from the photo above, all desert (we passed the time by counting camels along the way!) Also a photo of us below the Burning Bush (really a "descendent" of the Burning Bush)This is the main thing to see at the Monastary and people were lined up to put their prayers in the wall and touch it. I managed to get a piece for my souvenir collection.

Camel trek up to see Mt. Sinai





Okay, so there was no way we could actually climb to the top of Mt. Sinai with K but we did manage to do a 20min. camel trek to a spot where we could "see" the Mt. J had the very uncomfortable job of holding onto K while riding the camel and decided to walk with her on the way back down because it was just too painful- of course she screamed and yelled the entire trip down the hill because she didn't want to get off the thing! Mt. Sinai is the mountain just above my head in our family photo... after all of our efforts, we still didn't get very close to it :)

Where the desert meets Maui, that's Sharm!



It was so pretty there at night with the full moon out.

Our trip to Sharm


Darn-it, now that she's two we have to pay for her seat! She loves to fly though... and so does "Gabriel" her beloved doll that accompanies us EVERYWHERE!

K's first ride with a boy!



Went to a birthday party today and they had this three-wheeler toy; when Saad hit the gas and they took off it was hilarious! Thankfully, K didn't like it very much so I'm hoping this keeps her from accepting rides with boys for many years to come! :)

Monday, November 10, 2008

Sharm El Sheikh or Bust!

It’s actually about as close to a ‘bust’ as a trip could come! I’m writing this from Amman, after two crazy days on the trip to nowhere. We left Sat. afternoon, literally dragging ourselves out the door because we were still tired from the Ball. I think we hit the road about three hours late! Arrived in Aqaba and relaxed for the evening only to wake up early the next morning for the drive to Egypt. If you’ve been following this blog for any period of time then you know how we hate border drama but always manage to find it. This day turned out to be no exception. Now keep in mind it is no EU, every time you enter or exit a border it takes at least 30 minutes of waiting around for the paperwork to be completed, also there are always long lines so we learned fast to do what the Arabs do, cut! Well, first we had to leave Jordan, then enter Israel, then drive 10min. along the Red Sea coast to exit Israel, and then officially enter Egypt. At this point, I was thinking, wow, it’s been less than two hours – this is going too well, we may be at Mt. Sinai by 3:00…it figures, at this point we hit our roadblock!

Egypt would not let us drive our car to Sharm without trip insurance that had to be purchased in Israel. (Mind you, we’ve already spent $100 in Israel to insure our car to drive the few mile distance between Egypt and Jordan) we had no idea that Egypt needed insurance too- this was some sort of a new rule. SO- we depart Egypt in order to ask Israel customs a quick (2min.) question about where to purchase this insurance. We asked our question and they told us that we could only purchase the insurance in Tel Aviv (which we were not about to drive to Tel Aviv) SO it was back to Egypt to see if we could bribe the customs agent. Unfortunately, before they let us leave again (to go about 100 ft to the Egyptian side) we had to officially reenter and then exit Israel AGAIN. I can’t even begin to say how annoying this was, especially when the passport people had just seen us an hour before and we had go into the whole story about 10 different times! Then, to our dismay, we found one of the few Egyptian gov’t officials who could not be bribed and we were given a no-go from customs. So, exit Egypt, reenter Israel, drive 10 min., exit Israel and reenter Jordan… All of this wasted probably 5-6 hours and the furthest we traveled was 6 miles (three countries in 6 miles, pretty good!) At least everyone at the border was very nice to us, we must have been asked about Obama a dozen times… he’s getting lots of smiles and thumbs up in this part of the world, Ha! So far, just a typical day in the life of a FAO family.

At this point, we decide to hurry back to Amman and buy tickets to fly to Sharm instead. We take off in a hurry because we didn’t want to be caught driving after dark. We forgot that it gets dark at about 4:30 pm now and ended up driving half the way in the dark. Now we know why they say not to drive after dark! For one thing, everyone keeps their brights on… plus you are always watching out for people and animals to cross the road along with all of the usual crazy driving. K also decided that she had had enough and was miserable for most of the trip back home. Couldn’t blame her, it was a crappy day for all of us! Thank goodness, some nice Christian missionaries at the Israeli border gave us a bag of candy and suckers; I don’t think she (or us) could have made the trip home without those suckers to keep her quiet.

We finally get home safely (Thank God) and find out that plane tickets for K and I are going to cost $600 for a last minute trip BUT we could take the ferry from Aqaba over for only $300. Crap! Now we needed to head BACK to Aqaba where we had just left and had a miserable trip home. We debated all night whether to scrap the trip, drive back down to Aqaba early and catch the ferry (why in the world didn’t we just stay down there in the first place?!) or fork out the $600 and buy plane tickets. Ahh, what to do?! If it were just us, we would have driven back down, catch the ferry, and save a few bucks but we just couldn’t force another long car trip on K. Given our motto to “seize the day” I really hated to scrap the trip (and the incredible resort there just waiting for us!) so we forked out the cash today for the plane tickets and fly out tomorrow morning for four nights. As much as I hate to miss an opportunity for adventure, I also hate to waste money so it looks like I broke even on this trip! Now we’re just hoping we made the right decision and have a great five days in Sharm…. It had better be worth all the DRAMA!!! :)

THANKFULLY, spending today back in Amman allowed us to take care of a few business things we needed to do, including FINALLY getting our plane tickets back to the States. We officially leave Amman (with heavy hearts) on Dec. 2. We’ll be in the UK visiting our new niece and some friends until the 7th of Dec. Then we fly to DC to house hunt until the 13th. Then we fly to MN where J will be until Jan. 2 (he starts school on the 5th) and K and I will leave MN on the 15th on Jan. (Yay, over a month back home to catch up with family!) We’ll make it back to DC in time for the Inauguration, I read that hotel rooms are a hot commodity in DC that week so feel free to come stay with us if you’re interested… That is, if we actually have a house by that point! :) To all our pals in DC and MN, we cannot wait to catch up with you in person!!!!

Okay, time to get repacking….. like I said, Sharm El Sheikh or BUST!

Saturday, November 8, 2008

Marine Ball '08




Last night was the Marine Ball and we had a fun time (some of us more than others- J!!) Condoleezza Rice was supposed to be the guest speaker but had to cancel at the last minute to go to Aquaba (maybe we'll see her there later today, ha!) so that was a bummer. I got to enjoy the ball as the only sober one in the room (me and all of the Mormons that is) the upside to that is other than feeling fine this morning, I have great video of everyone else being crazy. Can we say blackmail? :) I spent the night trying not to look 20 weeks pregnant and J spent the night making sure everyone had a blast. He got the girls a round of shots (see pic) and danced until I had to drag him home, what can I say- my feet were killing me!

KK's best buds!



We had so much fun on our last pony ride that we decided to invite the gang along this time which unfortunately, did not work out so well. KK had a blast but Saad only rode his horse for 10 min. and the other girls, Zain and Maya, refused to even get near the ponies (much to the dismay of their mothers who are both accomplished riders!) It was still great to be outside in the fresh air and picnic out of the city for a couple hours. I tried to get a good picture of the "four musketeers" but this was the best I could do since they were too busy playing their favorite game of "get you". We spend hours with these kiddos everyweek and love them so much!

KK the animal lover


She loves setting up her animals on the farm and singing "Old McDonald" for everyone of them.

KK (as she calls herself!)


We're heading out of town in an hour so I'm uploading my pics from the camera...couldn't resist posting this one of our cutie-pie!

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Election Day!

I hope everyone had a fun Halloween! It is finally starting to feel like fall here, which means for the first time in months, I turned off the AC at night and turned on the heat instead. I do miss the turning of the leaves though, J has been watching football games on the weekends and it makes us homesick to see the colorful campuses. We are still hoping to leave around Dec. 2 but things are at a standstill now (funding issues) so it looks like this is going to be one last minute move. Inshallah as they say here! We can expect nothing less in this chosen career where “go with the flow” is the mantra- whether we like it or not!

In the meantime, we are enjoying life in Amman and feeling sad about leaving our new friends and laidback routine behind. After years of J’s long hours, it’s been great to have him home in the afternoons. I’m sure we’ll look back on this past year for the rest of our lives and think man, those were the days! We’ve had such an education this year, in so many ways; I just hope we don’t forget it all.

Last week I finally got to see my first members of the royal family! No, not the queen darn it, but the King’s mother and sister. We were shopping at a charity bazaar that they sponsored and literally got pushed out of the way by their security forces. It was kind of funny at the time. The Princesses looked pretty normal to us so without their security guards we would not have recognized them as VIPs. If it were me, I’d wear my crown everywhere!

Well, my month of domestic bliss has come to and end. Jane will go back to part-time now and I’ll have to start weaning myself off her. We found her a new family to sponsor her when we leave here so she’ll start working for them this month. We are very excited that she will get home for a month after we leave since it has been 2 years for her. One of the things that upsets me the most about Jordan (other than the huge problems with domestic violence, frequent honour killings and insane traffic) is the abuse of domestic workers. This is such a huge, out of control problem here. The Philippine embassy actually had to ban new workers from coming here for a few months because so many workers were hiding out in their embassy trying to escape abuse with nowhere else to go. I could write pages on this topic but I won’t, instead I’ll just tell you two quick stories that will certainly be etched in my mind the next time I read or hear something about human trafficking.

The first is about what I call the prisoner across the hall. There is a Filipino woman who works for a Jordanian family across the hall from us that we have known about for some time, but rarely see. She is not allowed to speak to Jane but sometimes when Jane is leaving our home, they are able to sneak in a few words. A few weeks ago, this woman was able to get Jane’s phone number and snuck a call to her at midnight. She said that the family she works for have not paid her in over four months (I’m sure she works 12 hour days/7 days a week) and they were kicking her out in a few days and she had no place to go and of course, no money. This is the same woman J saw slapped by one of the boys of the house in front of our home one day. To think this is happening to a woman that lives literally 6 feet away from us is just crazy!

Another story- Jane was at a grocery store when a Filipina woman tried to initiate a “secret” conversation with her. She said that her employer was beating her (Jane saw the cigarette burn marks on her arms and face) and that she needed to run away but didn’t have anywhere to go and no money. Then, about a minute later, her employer came up to them and slapped her in the middle of the store (in front of police even) for speaking to Jane. Jane told me she was just glad that she could give her a few bucks before they were caught talking.

The sad thing is, there is just no place for these women to go! Really! Their embassy has about 200 women (at last count) all living in cots in a warehouse but they are not real advocates for these women, in one word- corruption! J keeps telling me I need to find the Oprah of the Middle East and write her a letter. I wish there was something more that I could do… often they don’t even have their passports because their sponsors confiscate them, so if they do manage to run away, they can’t leave the country (not that they’d have the money to do so anyway). I wish there was some sort of a shelter here for these women, or legal advocate to at least help them get their due pay but I’m pretty sure the wasta (powerful class) wouldn’t allow it. The Jordanians get pretty pissed when their help runs off because it cost them a lot of money to bring them over here and sponsor them. You should see how skinny and malnourished some of these women look- it reminds me of when we were living in Korea and they had the “drinky” girls brought over for the clubs. I know this kind of stuff happens every day around the world and it is just one more thing that makes me thankful the U.S. has tough laws and shelters!

Okay, on a happier note, it’s Election Day! Regardless of who you’re voting for I hope that we can all agree that it is great news we are finally getting a new president! (That is unless you are in the 29% approval ratings crowd and if that’s the case, stay in your cave! Ha!) God Bless America that I can even write the above, I am well aware that I would not dare say such a thing about a Jordanian official. We are actually attending an election party with a bunch of Jordanians hosted by my half-American friend tonight. We are looking forward to hearing their comments! The world is fascinated by US politics and it’s easy to see why- we have the best dialogue don’t we? (Even if most of what they promise will never happen, LOL!)

We’ve got a busy week ahead. The Marine Ball is on Fri. night, I’ve never been to one before but I’m told it’s “the” social event of the year. Although, I am definitely not looking forward to dressing in a formal at 20 weeks pregnant. At this point, I don’t look preggo, I just look fat! And I have to quick figure out a way to get rid of my tan lines before Fri., it’s not easy to find that fake tan stuff here. Then on Sat., we are heading to the Sinai for a week. It’s going to be a nutty trip- driving to Sharm El Sheik with a stop at Mt. Sinai so J can climb it. We drive from Jordan to Israel to Egypt and back, which in itself will be a huge pain crossing all of the borders. Please pray for our safety on the roads : ) Driving in Egypt is about the craziest thing we’ll ever do… there is a reason we saved this trip until the end and we’re hoping our expertise pays off. Lots of photos and stories to come! I’d better sign off now, after K sat on her potty chair for 20 min. she decided the best place to go was on my lap, that little stinker! Cheers!

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Halloween Pics!





Our little Minnie Mouse was so cute! She enjoyed wearing her costume and prancing around in her shiny new shoes. The last pic is from a Halloween party we attended. Trying to get kids to pose for a photo like that is next to impossible! The others are from trick-or-treating at the Embassy (since they don't do it at homes here). We had lots of fun walking thru the decorated offices and K enjoyed it until some jerk stuck out his hand and tried to grab her, which scared me too. That left her pretty traumatized for a while and I certainly couldn't blame her for that. Wish I would have broken his hand when I had the chance! All she talked about afterwards was it being "scary" despite my attempts to distract her with candy. Also a picture of my favorite costumes, the pink poodle and superman! Now isn't he handsome?

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Pony ride





Yesterday we took K on a pony ride at some stables outside of Amman. I was amazed that she stayed on the horse for the entire 30min. ride and held on perfectly. You can tell by the pics she was very serious about it! We all had so much fun and are already looking forward to our next trip to the stables.

Happy 2nd Birthday K!






One of the most fun things about being a mom is planning B-day parties, I'm already excited for next year! :) We celebrated K's B-day a few days early and hosted her party at our favorite bookstore here. We had a nice mix of American and Jordanian kids and our music teacher came and lead the kids in some fun songs. Then the kids dined on all 'mini' food- little pizzas, hot dogs, cheese sticks etc. I'm still not sure if K knew that it was actually "her" birthday and not Elmo's! The next day she woke us up at 6am to open her party presents. I have a picture of her with her favorite gift, baby dolls in their strollers. She gave them each a name and has played with nothing else since.

Friday, October 24, 2008

Toddler's unleashed!






The kids had so much fun- they jumped to "No more monkey's bouncing on the bed", marched to "The Ants go marching one by one" and basically kept the energy running high for 2 hours! We were pretty exhausted by the end but it was a blast!